Samar Ahsan Presents

Spain

Two bold itineraries for the North and South.

Written January 2025

Field Notes

Spain might be sick of me. It has seen me four times, more than any other country outside of the US and Pakistan. In another life, I must have been a Moorish conquistador, the way I keep coming back. Each of these four trips varied drastically, from the food, the weather, the architecture, and even the spoken language. If Andalucía is flaming red, then Catalunya is a bold blue, and Madrid sits in the middle as a white flag between the two. And that’s just three regions. There are 14 other autonomous communities in Spain that I haven’t even touched (except Mallorca – leaving that experience in the recesses of my mind).

Spain is imbued with a passion built over centuries of conquering and reconquering; of expansion, incursion, and dictatorship. That’s why we go, to understand how that passion bleeds into daily life.

Most recently, I went with eight friends to do a three-city, two-week tour over the holidays. In this guide, I’ll split out two classic trips. Starting from Madrid, and then going north to Barcelona or South to Sevilla. Both are la hostia.

Parque Retiro, circa 2015. Image Nadeem Ahsan

Empezar en Madrid

I love a well-designed city. Madrid is the grandfather of cities: wide, imposing, yet deeply charming. The plazas are grand, the architecture is ornate, the transportation is world-class, and even the street signs are crafted from artisanal tiles.

On my most recent trip, I stayed between the neighborhoods of Lavapiés and Barrio de La Latina. Apparently ‘latinear,’ or to head out for a midday stroll, derives its name from this cute neighborhood. If you care to be exposed to the underground counter-cultural scene, stay in Malasaña. Though I found staying in La Latina while going here at night was a great balance.

We’ve got two days to kill in Madrid. One note: Madrid is not a touristy city, but it is very livable and a great place to adjust to the Spanish lifestyle.

Gothic Quarter, circa 2018. Image Samar Ahsan

North to Barcelona

Train: Madrid → Barcelona, 2h52m through Iryo

I am one of those hoity-toities that ‘studied abroad in BarTHElona,’ but only for a month in 2018 (just after the Catalan separatist movement failed). I chose Barcelona because, at the ripe age of 19, I believed it had everything – beaches, mountains, history, unique architecture, and crazy clubbing. However, its well-rounded hype has created a problem for itself, dubbed as parquetematización, or the theme-parkification of the city. In this section, I’ll highlight the activities I feel are worth the hype. No short-term rentals – stick to hotels or hostels in or near l’Eixample.

There truly is an endless array of activities to experience in Barcelona, but I have a few hot takes. Namely, Park Güell is a tourist trap. So is La Rambla. But I understand doing anything once. Here’s what I think is truly worth it.

Day Trips

Tarragona

30m by train

Tarragona gives historic chic, with spectacular Roman ruins plus sparkling Mediterranean sunsets and vibes. I need to go back, as I was horrifically hungover on my visit (curse you, Razzmatazz).

Montserrat

1h 5m by train

Montserrat features the coolest limestone rock formations (aptly named ‘serrated mountain’). Ride the funicular, visit the monastery, see the first Black Madonna, and don’t crash a wedding.

Parque de María Luisa, circa 2025. Image Samar Ahsan

South to Sevilla

Train: Madrid → Sevilla, 2h41m through Iryo

The path of the Moors is not for the faint of heart. One must journey through Toledo, Córdoba, Málaga, Granada, Sevilla, and Gibraltar to gain even a rudimentary understanding of the conquering Muslim faction that ruled Spain for centuries.

You could rent a car and do all of that, or you could simplify things slightly, taking a train from Madrid to Sevilla and adding in a few day trips to get a good picture. If I could offer some sage advice: do NOT pick up the oranges from the trees and eat them. They are sour bastards, quite unforgiving. Oh, and be careful during Three Kings’ Day – they throw the candy quite viciously.

I stayed in an adorable Airbnb next to the Church of El Salvador, and the location was fabulous. But if you want true luxe, try Hotel Alfonso XIII.

Day Trips

Granada

2h 18m by train

When visiting the Real Alcázar in Sevilla, I was impressed. Yet everyone kept telling me how it paled in comparison to the Alhambra, its predecessor and the most famous example of Islamic architecture in Europe. Though I was 12 when I saw it, I can say it’s worth the train.

Cádiz

1h 24m by train

If you need a beach day, look no further than Cádiz, a dreamy seaside city that also hosts stunning examples of ancient Roman architecture. If I disappear without a trace one day, you’ll probably find me here.